The Great Trango Towers of Pakistan

The Great Trango Towers of Pakistan


The great Trango Towers of Pakistan are across the Baltoro Glacier and are deemed to be the most arduous vertical falls for climbers. These towers featuring spiky elevations are surrounded by Lupsand tower, Uhli Beaho Tower, Muztagh Tower Biange Tower and Paiyu Peak. Trango are comprised of of three main summits, all over 6000 meters. The highest of them is the summit of Great Trango Tower, 6,286 m (20,608 ft).

The Great Trango Towers of Pakistan
The Great Trango Towers of Pakistan

For the adventurous mountaineers of the world they carry the favorite character as they are considered to having the most straight and vertical drops. Their climbing route is absolute shrewd and undistorted. The whole Trango sierra range is surrounded by high mountains such as K2, the Gasherbrums, and Broad Peak, all rising more than 8000 meters (26,200 ft) above sea level.

Galen Rowell, John Roskelley, Kim Schmitz, Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek were the first climbers of the great Trango in 1977 and they selected the route starting from the west side (Trango Glacier). But The east face of Great Trango, the world’s tallest vertical rock face was first climbed in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dأ¦hli, but unfortunately both of them were killed on the descent. In 1992, Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf became the first successful climbers and descanters from this eastern route the most horrific and toilsome wall climbs of the world. The Northwest Face, comparatively easier was climbed in 1984 by Andy Selters and Scott Woolums. The Nameless Trango Tower was first climbed in 1976 by the famous British climber Joe Brown accompanying Mo Anthoine, Martin Boysen, and Malcolm Howells. There are almost 8 separate climb routes to climb this Nameless tower , among which the Eternal Flame is assumed to be the best and the most preferred.

Steep Vertical Falls of Trango Towers
Steep Vertical Falls of Trango Towers

The Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan (formerly Northern Areas) is filled with such wonders but Trango Towers offer the most challenging and thrilling rock climbing exercise to the world. But one must never forget that they have the severe stormy and windy climate. Normally August and September are considered to be the best months of the year. Although this area of Himalya faces a little monsoon effect  but still the factor of avalanches and snow sliding exist here every time. The climbers usually adopt the siege tactics (i.e. large quantities of fixed ropes) which is a more tentative way of mounting however it is also a troublesome and time taking task.


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